Hypoglycemia:
For the first couple of days give the puppy Nutri-Cal or Nutri-Stat Paste twice a day to keep their sugar level up. You can just squeeze a dab of the paste on your finger and or Q-tip and place directly into their mouth.
Young, toy breed puppies can develop a low blood sugar condition due to overexcitement, overexertion, or injury and can very, very quickly become unconscious and even die without immediate treatment! If the puppy misses a meal, offer a tasty bite of lean meat or baby food (chicken or beef), scrambled egg, cottage cheese or goat’s milk just for the purpose of getting a little food in the stomach. If the puppy does not eat, is stressed by too much excitement, handling, or new experiences, it may result in a hypoglycemic (low blood sugar) attack. Prevention and treatment is simple.
The early signs of hypoglycemia: lethargy, sleepiness, a dazed look, then, as it progresses, a staggering or “drunken” gait, drooling, collapse and convulsions. If it is not treated, it continues into coma and ultimately death!
Treatment: Immediately dap your finger into a jar of honey, jam or corn syrup and smear a small amount directly into the puppy’s mouth(the best thing to have is the nutra-cal). Be careful as you don’t want to give so much that can cause chocking and too much “sugar” can shock the puppy’s system. A high calorie supplement such as Nutra-Cal or Nutra-Stat can also be given in as a preventative or in the early stages of hypoglycemia. In addition, Gator-Aid given slowly into the side of the mouth with a syringe will also help. Once they seem to be recovering in response to the treatment of honey or corn syrup, you should also prepare a mixture of the following: 2 Tbs. Gerber Baby Rice Cereal, 2 tsp. Gerber Strained Chicken Meat, 1 tsp. corn syrup. Add water to make it the consistency of pudding. Fill a large syringe or a baby medicine dropper with mixture and give it to the puppy by squeezing the mixture either on the tongue or between the cheek and gum. Give the puppy a chance to swallow and then give them more. Give approximately 12 cc and repeat every 4 hours. This will need to be done until they feel better and start to eat on their own.
If the puppy has reached advanced stages of hypoglycemia and has gone into the staggering state, it ABSOLUTELY must be taken to the veterinarian, even after it has been given sugar and has recovered. The reason for this is that once a puppy has had a serious drop in blood sugar, it can occur again with even less stress and the veterinarian can help prevent this. Be very vigilant while the puppy is still young (up to 6 months of age, depending upon their size)!
Feeding:
Feeding is the MOST CRITICAL part of caring for a tiny Maltese or Maltese mix. Due to their small size they do not have much reserve of calories or energy. Therefore, it is essential that your Maltese or Maltese mix gets enough calories by eating only a premium, high quality, high calorie diet and by eating frequent meals. Also, the size of the kibble/food needs to be small enough so that it will fit into their small mouths.
Leave out dry or soaked kibble all of the time (free-feed), 24/7, so that the dog has access to the kibble.
Rest:
Another important step in care of the smaller sized Maltese or Maltese mix is making sure they get enough rest just as you would with a newborn infant. You must regulate the amount of activity your puppy gets. Young, small breed puppies tire very easily and quickly, especially if they are allowed to romp freely about the house or are handled excessively. They need their rest just like an infant.
Warmth:
Do not let your puppy get chilled, especially after a bath. If they are cold, shivering will eat up calories and lower their immunity making them more susceptible to sickness.
Puppy Proofing:
You need to be sure your home and yard has been puppy-proofed. Conceal electrical cords, make sure outside areas are properly enclosed and that there are no poisonous plants at a level where a dog could reach them. Until the puppy has learned boundaries, do not let them jump off of furniture, staircases, etc. Only let a responsible adult hold or carry your puppy. They can be very wiggly at times and a fall could cause tremendous injury. It is best not to wear shoes in the house as you will be able to feel them around your feet, plus shoes can do more damage than a bare foot. Make sure you know where they are when you are walking through the house as they will more likely be very close to your feet. Do not let your tiny Maltese or Maltese mix outside unattended EVER! Other animals can carry them off. Even cats can hurt them. Also, never allow your tiny Maltese or Maltese mix to walk in crowded areas or around other dogs. They can be injured very easily.
Bringing home a new puppy can be such a joyous event. To keep it as such, your new puppy will need special care and attention over the next several months.
First and for most... find out from the breeder what brand and type of food has been fed up until this time. Sudden changes in diet can cause digestive upsets so make sure you start your puppy out on the same food as he or she has been getting. If a change is to be made, space it out over the course of a week. The first two days feed 75% of the original food and 25% of the new. The next two or three days feed in 50/50 increments. Towards the end of the week switch to 75% new food and only 25% of the old and finally end by feeding only the new type of food.
If you don’t live in the same area and use the same water supply as where you get your puppy, it is recommended you get a gallon or so of water to switch over in the same manner as described above. Different levels or lack of chlorine, fluoride and other components can also cause upset stomachs.
New owners must remember that young puppies have no more control or concept of potty training than a young child. In the early days of ownership, housebreaking is a hit and miss proposition. Many owners find it easier to confine the puppy in a crate, utility or bathroom when they are unable to keep a constant watch on the new family member’s movements. Newspaper makes a cheap, absorbent material for whatever area the puppy is placed in.
Physically, puppies are not able to hold urine and feces for extended periods of time nor will they remember five minutes after the fact what they have done to upset you. The best way of training you puppy to go outside is to take him out as soon as he wakes up in the morning, right after each feeding and nap as well as right before bed at night. Positive reinforcements such as praise and treats will work better than harsh words, rubbing their noses in the mess or beating with a paper. Many times harsh training methods not only harm the owner/dog bond, it can actually exacerbate the problem you are trying to solve. There are several breeds, which have trouble holding their urine during excitement or fear. This “tinkling” will further exasperate the owner and cause a never-ending cycle of disappointment and correction. With any form of training, consistency is the key.
Once you have your puppy home, it is best to introduce him to other pets slowly and under controlled circumstances. There have been many puppies seriously or fatally injured by the older, established dogs in a household trying to “show who is boss.”
It is very common for puppies to cry the first night or two in a strange place. An old fashioned “ticking” clock or one of your dirty tee shirts will often settle the pup down to sleep. Others have found a small stuffed toy, a baby blanket or even an old fashioned hot water bottle to be affective as well.
Grooming should be started at an early age. Tabletops are often best because the puppy is off the ground and less likely to try and run away. An elevated position is also more comfortable for the owner’s back and knees. It is important to start training for grooming early even if your puppy hasn’t much hair. As he gets older, it will be more difficult to physically restrain him. An added benefit to having him learn to stay still during grooming is that he will often be much more passive and better behaved when taken into the vet.
Bathing can commence as early as seven or eight weeks. This should be made into a fun time for the puppy and not something to dread. Do this by keeping a light happy tone to your voice, giving lavish praise and going at a slow, gentle pace through out. Many owners find having the water in the tub before adding the dog causes a calmer bath time than rushing water from a faucet. Before the bath, place cotton balls in the ears.
The most important need for the new puppy is an abundant amount of love and understanding from the family. By taking in the puppy, you have introduced a new family member to the house that can be with you for many, many years. He will be a source of great joy, comfort and companionship if given the opportunity to reach his full potential.
